Wednesday, June 05, 2013

Day 2-- Reykjavik


In 1999 I flew over Iceland for a layover on my way to England, and ever since I have wanted to revisit the landscape that was so unique. I wanted to recreate that with this flight, but the intense rain made it impossible.

My flight went very well, but we landed in a hard rain that did not seem as though it would give up. But this is an island, and weather blows through quickly, so by the time I was at my guesthouse, it was sunny, and that´s how it stayed. Which was great, since I was outdoors all day.

I did struggle to figure out the city bus system, and I was pleased to hear a native Icelander complain about it later, because it was tough. I eventually made my way out of the city to a museum. This farm used to be a 1 day´s walk from Reykjavik, but now the city has grown around it.




A few sod covered buildings were original to the site, and the rest they have hauled in from areas all over the country rather than destroy them in rebuilding projects.  The sod roofs were very picturesque, but drafty inside. I was the only person on the English guided tour, so all my questions were answered. 

The sod houses had no indoor heat, and Icelanders used to bring their bathtubs into the barn part of the dwelling because the animals´ heat made it the warmest part of the house. 



The stone of Iceland is lovely. The bus ride from Keflavik airport--a former US military base--went through a lava field covered in rocks covered by lichen. It was an amazing landscape.




The houses wer tiny, maybe 800sq ft at most, and they would have had 10 or 15 people living in them! The lumpy twin sized beds would have held 2 or 3 people.  



Although they were not really open for business, the museum´s cafe cook took pity on me and served me this dish, what she had prepared for the staff lunch.  It is potatoes, mutton meatballsöövery salty--and cold, soft, chick peas in gravy. She suggested I put the rhubarb jam on everything and eat it that way. That really did enhance the flavor.


My tour guide. She said the docents all learn to knit, since wool working is a major historical industry of Iceland.  

Other facts about Iceland the hot water in the shower smells of sulfur because they use geothermal heat to power everyone´s hot water. 


I´m stalking images of Christmas for my book, and here is one of the 13 mischevous Icelandic Yule Lads. They pull pranks on the days before Christmas. One steals sausage, and another steals meat. 

Worn out, I got fish and chips. These were not as good as the ones we had in Glastonbury 10 years ago. Those left an impression!  Iceland survived on cod and other seafood for centuries.  


This is my very complete room. I have my own bath and kitchenette and someone will prepare my breakfast downstairs, all for 65 dollars, which is great!

I did face some sad news when I took my netbook to the computer store downtown and they told me that it was broken, probably beyond repair--the charger is misallaigned. A very nice Icelandic woman sympathized with me on the bus ride home, and I realized this is a very friendly nation.  So right  now I´m surrounded by head-phone wearing gamers at an internet cafe. I think they are all playing each other, because they all hoot at each other occasionally. 

My love to everyone at home!!

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